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This archived article makes the case for seafood at Christmas, beyond the usual smoked salmon starter.
It points to fish-led festive traditions and encourages a more coastal approach to celebration meals.
1. It feels light and fresh
After weeks of rich food, a beautiful piece of fish or a platter of shellfish is a welcome change, lighter on the stomach but still celebratory, and it leaves room to enjoy the rest of the day.
2. It is steeped in tradition
Many food cultures put fish at the centre of Christmas, from Italy's Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve to Scandinavian and Eastern European fish suppers. Joining in adds a lovely sense of occasion.